Abreu

When you ask David about olive oil, he immediately recounts growing up in Rutherford. Just like it was 60 years ago, when olive trees lined the avenues and crossroads throughout the valley. At Madrona Ranch, the ancient Arbequina and Farga trees drape in front of oldest vines at the base of the property. It is from these trees that we made our first olive oil. Now, olives reside on each vineyard site producing oils as distinctive as their grape counterparts. The oils are all cold pressed, extra virgin. The same oil that David remembers from his childhood.

David’s mom is tough. You would have to be to raise seven kids in a two-bedroom farmhouse. Kathleen ran the house, the farm and she ruled the kitchen. Dinner time was as much about work as it was about feeding empty stomachs. All the children had a task. Fetching eggs, milking cows, gathering vegetables from the garden and chasing down birds to roast.

David’s palate was formed by these rustic meals prepared around the century-old chopping block. Pulling pin feathers from pigeons, dressing the birds for Kathleen as she chopped aromatics and prepared a classic pot au feu. Next to the stove, in an old wine bottle, was the most recent harvest of olive oil. Kathleen would pour two glugs into the cast iron skillet. The dark green hue of fresh extra virgin olive oil would sheen and faintly smoke before the skin of the freshly plucked squab hit the pan. Another touch of oil to ensure a crisp skin before the onions, carrots and garlic were added to caramelize. Some wine for the pan, some wine for Kathleen. The recipe never changes no matter how many years go by.