Vermont Pub and Brewery

Greg Noonan’s 1986 book, Brewing Lager Beer, helped break open the microbrewing industry in the United States, and in 1988, Noonan opened Vermont Pub & Brewery in Burlington.

Among beer connoisseurs, Burlington’s Greg Noonan is legendary. His books on brewing are considered mandatory reading for home- and microbrewers. Known for crafting unique, delicious beers, he also provided expert consultation on startup and design of pubs and breweries. Noonan founded Vermont Pub & Brewery, creating a region-wide landmark and helping stimulate the economic growth and expansion of Burlington’s downtown.

It’s hard to remember when “brewpub” was not part of the American lexicon, but only two decades ago, most Americans had not tasted beer made in small, independent brewery-taverns. Craft brewing today is a $3.8-billion-a-year industry, with more than 1,300 microbreweries and brewpubs operating in the United States, according to the Brewers Association. This industry boom is a happy surprise to Noonan, although his efforts were very influential in its occurrence. In 1986, Noonan published, Brewing Lager Beer: The Most Comprehensive Book for Home- and Microbreweries, which quickly became a classic reference for craft brewers nationwide.

“You’re not going to find a successful brewer in the country that doesn’t have a dog-eared copy of this book,” says John Kimmich,Noonan’s protégé and co-owner of The Alchemist Pub & Brewery in Waterbury. “It is the definitive book on brewing lager beer.” Noonan was brewing beer as a hobby while working as a manufacturing manager for paper and wood products companies in Massachusetts. Microbreweries were just becoming trendy on the West Coast, and he decided to pursue the commercial possibilities for his craft. He had managed restaurants in New Hampshire and Boston and wanted his own restaurant to feature his brew. He used the results of his research for Brewing Lager Beer to launch his brewpub in Burlington. “I specifically sited my brewery in Burlington because it’s where I wanted to live. I admired the politics in Vermont,” says Noonan. “I had $175,000, which is a shoestring budget in the brewing industry; brewing equipment is very expensive.” He applied to several banks for additional funds, but lenders were skeptical. “The banks all said, ‘What is a brewpub?’ But I plunged on anyway with the money I had.” As he prepared to open, Noonan received a visit from Polewacyk, a longtime friend from his St. Anselm College days in New Hampshire. Polewacyk worked as a database consultant in the New York City metropolitan area. “I came to help him open and gave him a couple weeks of my time, doing whatever needed to be done — bartending, construction, cleaning, setting up a computer system, writing checks, shoveling,” Polewacyk says. A few weeks turned into months, and then a career. “When I came up those first two weeks, I realized how chaotic it was. I computerized the operation and said I would stay for three months.” Three months became six, and Polewacyk earned just enough from bartending to cover his expenses.